The air above Palau's pristine waters smells of salt and breadfruit, with the whirr of dive boat engines echoing across the bay in Koror. Once filled with tourists from China, those boats now remain idle following a sharp decline in visits after 2017, when Beijing reportedly halted tour operations to the islands, showcasing the impact of geopolitical maneuvers.

Palau is one of the few nations still recognizing Taiwan, which has turned it into a focal point of Chinese influence efforts. Local officials allege that China has utilized its tourism to pressure Palau into severing ties with Taiwan, promoting their political objectives. In response to these pressures, Palau maintains a close relationship with the US, which is bolstering military infrastructure on the island, aiming to counter Chinese expansion in the Pacific.

Palau faces a challenging balance as Chinese investments and military expansion converge on its shores, sparking concern among local leaders about sovereignty and the potential for conflict. As Palau navigates the complex dynamics of US military presence and Chinese influence, the voices of its inhabitants echo the anxieties of a nation caught between great powers.