In brief
Despite the dangers surrounding Sloviansk, sushi is offered at Slavnyi Horod to boost morale and provide comfort during the ongoing war.
In the heart of Ukraine's eastern town of Sloviansk, where artillery strikes are a grim reality, one restaurant is flipping the script on wartime dining. Meet Serhii Kovalov, the owner of Slavnyi Horod—“Glorious City”—who has bravely decided to serve sushi in the midst of conflict. Kovalov, despite not being a fan of sushi himself, has prioritized listening to his customers' cravings for this beloved dish. As Russian forces draw nearer, many locals are contemplating leaving their homes for safety. But not Kovalov; he remains steadfast in serving sushi to soldiers and civilians alike, providing them with a comforting taste of normal life amid chaos. Since the start of the war, when the invasion began in February 2022, Kovalov has adapted his menu to include sushi, a dish that has been remarkably popular in Ukraine. He believes that what his restaurant offers goes beyond food—it brings a glimmer of hope and connection to life as it once was. Through the hardships, Mr. Kovalov continues to serve freshly made rolls, defying the odds and nurturing the spirit of his community. In times of turmoil, sometimes all it takes is a bite of sushi to spark a sense of normalcy.
