A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have been particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through migration. However, German officials contended that its version has become part of their own national cuisine.
The traditional method of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie dates back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation, known as Udofed.
The federation's attempt sought uniform rules across the EU requiring that:
- The meat would come from cows aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts.
- Veal and turkey meat would be banned.
- Meat would need to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm.
- Knife types and marinades would also be regulated.
Germany's kebab, often featuring veal, fresh vegetables, and various sauces, diverges from the traditional recipe, posing potential restrictions on how these kebabs can be served.
After feedback from Germany's kebab industry and government, the Turkish federation announced the withdrawal of its application on September 23. In light of widespread objections, it faced an inevitable rejection from the EU.
In Germany alone, a significant portion of the population has Turkish roots, with over 60,000 people employed in the kebab industry, generating approximately €3.5 billion annually from kebab sales across Europe. The Turkish federation’s failed proposal highlighted the ongoing kebab culture clash amid evolving culinary traditions.
