In a groundbreaking trial in Reims, France, the dark side of the champagne business is revealed as three individuals, including a Kyrgyz woman and a Georgian man, stand accused of exploiting more than 50 seasonal workers. These workers, primarily from West Africa, were found living in deplorable conditions during the 2023 harvest.
Recruited through a WhatsApp message targeting the Soninke community in Paris, the undocumented migrants were promised well-paying jobs but instead faced squalid living situations. "They crammed us into a broken house with nothing but a bowl of rice to eat," recounted Kanouitié Djakariayou, a 44-year-old worker. The trial is a direct response to their inhumane treatment, including working ten-hour days without proper food or safety while housed in unsafe quarters.
Labor inspectors responded to alerts about the conditions, noting serious health and safety violations. The accused faces charges that could lead to lengthy prison sentences and substantial fines. The case has ignited debates about exploitation in the €6 billion champagne industry, where 120,000 seasonal laborers are recruited annually. Moreover, tragic incidents during past harvests, such as the deaths of six pickers from heatstroke, underscore the industry’s pressing need for reform.
Trade unions are demanding changes to the law that would penalize champagne producers more severely for using illegal labor practices. As the Comité Champagne recognizes the damage to its brand from such allegations, the ongoing trial raises vital questions about the ethics of labor in this iconic sector.
